I was delighted to find the Food Edition of the New Yorker in my mailbox yesterday. We get them a little later than most everybody else out here in CA, so if this is the first you are hearing of the issue, and you’re a fan of good food writing, run right out to your newsstand and nab a copy. That is, if you still have a local newsstand. If not, check out the links below quickly, because the New Yorker takes them down fast.
The Issue is particularly worth reading for Adam Gopnik’s take on why people read cookbooks. He traces the form of the book through the century and waxes philosophical on how the fantasy of the food always exceeds the reality. There’s also a fabulous takedown of the Michelin guides, which is supposed to illustrate their snobbery and fussiness, but actually just made me very hungry, and rather jealous of the assessors and their ability to taste and identify the ingredients of every sauce. Finally, there is a lovely one-page story about a young chef and her perfect aspic, which is a good reminder that not only was aspic once something people would look forward to eating, it was even considered elegant.
Other things I learned from the New Yorker include, Canadians apparently have turned smothered fries into high art, and the iPhone has an app called locavore to help you find farmer’s markets in your area.